Talking Rockies

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Wilderness Study Areas Around Moab

I’m working on the next hiking guide with David Day, and adding information on Negro Bill Canyon, which is still a Wilderness Study Area, and the object of some controversy in 1979, as local Burghers bulldozed the newly-erected BLM barricade and started the short-lived “Sagebrush Rebellion.” Soon after, a federal court order put a stop to the local rebellion, and hikers have enjoyed this riparian redoubt and its stunning Morning Glory Natural Bridge for the last 3 decades. Its year-round stream is a tributary of the Colorado.

Why wasn’t this WSA added to last year’s Omnibus Public Lands Act? It would be nice to have a clear explanation. Anyway, the BLM has a nice graphic on the WSAs around Moab, so here it is. The 5 areas north of I-70 are in the Book Cliffs.

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David Day Goes Electronic

David Day has always been mobile, having seemingly walked on every trail in Utah and most of them in Colorado, but now he’s gone electronic as well, with the recent launch of the iPhone app, “Utah’s Incredible Backcountry: Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef,” now available in Utah's Incredible Backcountry:Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef App Store. If you’d like to try out Dave’s great collection of printed guides, as well as his free online trail guides, check out his website.

After spending some time in the Pacific Rim, Day moved with his family to Provo, Utah in 1991, and since then he has focused on photography and hiking guides for Utah and Colorado. In all, he has published 10 books. Hikers from all over have used Day’s guides to find their way around the canyons and mountains in the Intermountain West.

In January I approached Dave about putting his great hike info on mobile devices, starting with the iPhone. He warmed to the idea, and recommended that we start with a group of 15 hikes in Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef. You can find out more about those hikes here. The emphasis is on the backcountry in each of these parks, away from the 100-yard snapshot crowd.

What’s next? Finishing out Utah’s national parks with a guide for Arches and Canyonlands, with some classic hikes in the Moab area. If all goes well, this next guide will be available by April.

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Canadian Lynx Coming to Utah?

As far as anyone knows, there are no Canadian Lynxes (Lynx canadensis) in Utah, but in 2004, 2 cats wandered over from Colorado for a brief visit. Wildlife workers were able to track these felines because they had been introduced into Colorado in 1999, and still have radio collars.

The Salt Lake Tribune reports that for the next few months wildlife officials will be checking around the Uintas to see if they can find any more of these endangered felines. Teams on the ground will look for live Lynx or paw prints in the snow, and air crews, one assumes, will cover greater areas looking for wandering cats.

It’s hard to count Lynx, so population estimates might not be any more accurate than IPCC predictions. By one of these estimates, however, there are only a few hundred individuals in all of the contiguous 48 states. Lynx are listed as Threatened.

What’s the cost? Just $15,000 for the whole study.

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Protecting Pikas

PikaYears ago, a group of us took a hike up Mount Elbert (14,433′, 4,402 m) in Colorado. Most of the hike was above timberline, and a member of the group told us that he kept seeing little furry creatures with tiny rabbit ears. By the time we got to the summit, we all got a chance to see some. Since then, over the years I’ve seen them in talus slopes all over. We found out later that they’re Pikas, also called “rock rabbits,” and their scientific name is Ochotona princeps. Years later, on Nevada’s Wheeler Peak (13,065′, 3,982 m) we ran into a botanist who showed us Acomastylis rossii, a low, touch plant with yellow flowers, and a member of the rose family. He told us that the Pikas stockpile the plant matter from these tough plants under the rocks, so they have something to eat up on those high peaks in the winter, under a layer of snow. He also did an excellent imitation of Pikas squeaking to defend their stockpile of alpine forage.

This botanist also told us that the prevailing sentiment about these plants — they’re delicate and hikers should never step on them — was not based in science. He said that A rossii is a resilient plant that pushed out new branches each year with vigor. They had to be this way to handle the Pika browsing.
Acomastylis rossi

Pikas are in the news this week. Part of their makeup is that these little rodents can’t handle the heat, and given the talk about climate change, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service might add them to the Endangered Species List. They’re supposed to make their pronouncement tomorrow, February 5, 2010. Whatever your take on climate change might be, it seems strange to add an animal to the list because it might get hotter. Given how complex weather is, it’s hard to know what’s going to happen in the future. For the last decade, for example, global temperatures have remained stable. Some scientists argue that the heat is just going into the ocean, and will come back into the air with the next “El Niño” with a vengeance. The UN IPCC publishes estimates that have air temperatures rising a few degrees in the next century. Others think the heat is dissipating out to space. Global Warming is a serious, complex issue, and we should all be informed.

The question is, what science is there behind putting these furry guys on the list? Is this decision based on merits or something else? Also, what does it mean to have Pikas listed? There’s not much development above treeline, and most of this property is already in federal hands. What will be different next Monday if they get special protection?

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Bighorn Sheep on a String

The Utah DWR is always busy moving critters around, with the goal of boosting populations. Helicopters are always one part of the activity, and everyone has seen animals suspended from slings. This is the first time I’ve ever seen five ungulates dangling from a cable, however.

These Desert Bighorn Sheep (Ovis canadensis nelsonii) are being moved to Utah’s remote Desolation Canyon. This transfer took place in January 2009. I’m sure the experts say this is fine, but I’m sure the sheep don’t think this is a good time.

One big problem with Utah’s herds is a lung parasite that spreads from hobby herds of sheep . The same month that sheep were moved, volunteers went to the same area to monitor sheep health. We’ll see how Utah’s sheep do over the next few years.

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Boys and Girls Gone Wild in Utah

Someone sent me a link to this great video and I thought I’d pass it on. Most of us don’t do this kind of stuff, but it’s nice to know that there are those who will do it while the rest of us watch in comfort from the safety of our workplaces, and at least think about raring back on our hind legs every now and then to to totter around Utah’s spectacles.

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40 More Bison for the Book Cliffs

In 1941, some people in Utah’s Department of Fish and Game decided the state needed a herd of wild bison in south central Utah, so they trucked 3 bulls and 15 cows from Yellowstone to the a ranch on the Dirty Devil River, in the San Rafael Desert. The next year they added 5 more bulls. About 20 years later the bison made their way to the Henry Mountains and have been there since. By 2007 the herd numbered 340. Today the Henry Mountain herd still has about 300 head, which makes it big enough to seed other areas.

Utah’s bison moving crew is at it again, but this time they’re working on building a herd in the Book Cliffs area. On January 15 and 16, state employees captured 40 bison from the Henry herd, to add to the other 50 head placed in the Book Cliffs area in 2008 (30 of those also came from the Henrys; the Ute Tribe of Utah donated 14, and 11 calves have been born there.) The new bison will join the small herd on January 20th. DWR officials hope to see the Book Cliffs herd grow to about 450 individuals.

Utah, one of the few states with free-roaming herds of wild bison, as three herds. The Henry herd, the new Book Cliffs group, and the herd on Antelope Island.

Unlike their domestic bovine cousins, bison aren’t easy to herd. To make it safer for workers, only cows, calves and male yearlings will be transported.  Even so, the specimens can weigh between 300 an 800 pounds, but adult males can weigh in at 2,000 pounds. It’s a labor-intensive operation, and must be expensive. To catch a single bison, a spotting crew flies over the area in an airplane, looking for the herd. When they find it, they call a capture crew, which flies out in a helicopter, singles out the individual to be transported, and drops a net onto it. The helicopter then drops down to let “muggers” out, who blindfold and hobble the animal.

The helicopter takes the animal to a nearby land crew, where it is loaded up in a sturdy horse trailer. The crew does the requisite health checks and takes blood samples at this time. Before going on to the Book Cliffs, the humpback critters have to go to Antelope Island for quarantine until they’re certified as healthy (the biggest threat is brucellosis, a bacterial infection that lowers birth rates and causes other problems).

If the bison are deemed healthy, they’ll go the Book Cliffs on January 25, 2010.

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Watch Bald Eagles

The Utah DWR is hosting its annual eagle-watching events on two different saturdays in February. Find out more here.

February 6

  • Fountain Green Fish Hatchery, east of Nephi. There will be a sign about 1 mile east of the town of Fountain Green, on UT-132. At the hatchery, state employees will hand out area maps showing the best places in Sanpete valley to see the raptors.
  • Rush Lake Ranch,  (UT-130), 12 miles north of
    Cedar City

February 13

  • Salt Creek Waterfowl Management Area (Compton’s Knoll), near the Great Salt Lake.
  • Farmington Bay.
  • Split Mountain, on the Green River, north of Jensen.


Take your binoculars!

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4 Ways to Make Your Hikes Safer

Most hikers come back from their treks happy and tired, ready for the comforts of civilization, but an unfortunate few end up on the evening news. How can you make sure your’e not in a tale of woe? Here are four ways:

  1. Watch the weather
  2. Heed the terrain
  3. Respect the critters
  4. Know your Abilities

1. Watch the Weather.

Cold, wet, windy or hot weather can be more than uncomfortable — it can be just plain dangerous. Keep an eye out for threatening weather and get somewhere safe if you see it coming.

  • On high peaks and passes, in the summer, watch the afternoon clouds. Pretty, puffy cumulous clouds can turn gray and nasty, then start throwing out lightning bolts. When threatening weather rolls in, start a steady descent. Lower is safer. When you plan your hike, take high summits and passes into account. It’s best to plan to be lower in the later summer afternoon.
  • In slot canyons, or in washes, be on the alert for flash floods. Check the weather forecast for the area before you go. If it looks like thunderstorms, find somewhere else to go that day. If you camp in a canyon, find high ground. Look for signs of flows in the canyon to gauge the high-water levels.
  • Take along adequate protection from the elements, even on short hikes. Even in the summer, throw a fleece in your daypack, and a disposable rain poncho. It’s good to have a small fire-starting kit as well. The checklist for winter hiking is much longer.
  • When it’s warm, take along plenty of water — about 1 liter for every 2 hours of hiking — and wear a hat.

2. Heed the Terrain

Mountains and canyons, with their steep slopes and cliffs, always present the danger of slides or falls. Even on popular routes, trails often wind along the edges of cliffs.

  • Stay on the trail. Established trails were cut with care, and are often the only safe route around hazardous terrain. Shortcuts often lead to the edges of cliffs, or onto steep and loose slopes.
  • If there is no trail, stay on the prescribed route. A slight deviation from a route can leave you on the edge of a cliff or on a perilous slope.
  • If you find yourself in a dangerous situation, find a way to backtrack to the trail or route.
  • On exposed sections of trails, ridges, or along a steep traverse, concentrate and place each step with care. Hiking poles increase stability, and allow the hiker to stay on 2 points at all times.
  • Only go on snowfields if you have a climbing axe and have practiced using it for self-arrest.
  • Stay off the talus and scree slopes when there’s a better way to go.

3. Respect the Critters

It’s a treat to see animals in the backcountry, whether large or small. Deer are easy to see, and sometimes there are elk, moose, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, bison and pronghorns. Herds of feral horses and burros roam the deserts. Foxes, coyotes, cougars and bear rove the mountains. Pikas and marmots peer out from the talus.

  • Enjoy the animals, but keep your distance.
  • Keep a clean camp. Don’t sleep with or near food, and where there are bears, keep your food in a bear canister. By some estimates, there are about 4,000 bears in Utah, and all of the United States has plenty of black bears.
  • The Utah Division of Wildlife has these 10 rules for cougar safety.

4. Know Your Abilities

Gauge your health and conditioning. Watch of signs of hypothermia, heat exhaustion, heart attack, and other health problems. Even at 10,000 feet (3,048 m) it’s possible to suffer from High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE).

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Rating a Hike’s Difficulty

Since hiking is just walking around, how is it that it can be dangerous or difficult? Besides falling, freezing, getting hit by lightning, getting lost, getting attacked by bears or cougars, or bitten by snakes, succumbing to heat exhaustion or dehydration, what’s the big deal?

After all, most hikers come back refreshed and with new stories to share back at the office. Unfortunately, sometimes the unfortunate few come back with tales of misery — or worse, come back in a state of final repose. Old hikers say that to err is human, but mountains don’t forgive.

Everyone comes to a hike with different conditioning, experience and expectations. One woman’s day hike is another man’s weekend trek. In spite of these differences, most hiking guides come with a set of difficulty ratings. In HikeUtah, we used the following scale:

  • Too Easy — the trek is just a walk from the car to the main attraction. Almost anyone can do it.
  • Easy — a few miles, a few hours or less than a few thousand feet altitude gain are all that’s required. There’s a well-marked, gentle trail the whole way. This is a good hike for novices and hikers of all ages; young or old can do this hike.
  • Moderate — the walk is 6 miles (9.6 k) or more, or the climb is 3,000 feet (914 m) or more. The trail may trace along some exposed slopes. There may be some route-finding.
  • Difficult — distance is over 10 miles (16 k) or the climb is more than 4,000 feet (1,219 m). There might be exposed slopes, route-finding or scrambles up steep and loose slopes or rough fields of talus. Only try difficult hikes if you’re fit. These hikes are not good for the very young or old.
  • Extreme — a full day, or more, of steady exertion from high altitude gain, long distance or both. There may be exposed slopes or scrambles up talus or scree. Trails may be rough or faint, or don’t exist. A 20-mile (32 k) trek in a day is extreme, as is any elevation gain greater than 4,500 feet (1,372 m). Technical climbing may be required. Only the seasoned and skilled should try these hikes.