Talking Rockies

For Wilderness and Solitude, Get Thee Into the Zion Backcountry!

In 2009 almost 2.7 million people showed up to see Zion National Park.Imagine  everyone in the city of Houston, Texas, along with the good people of Cleveland, Ohio coming out to get a little Chinle grit on their shoes. Things get busy in March, with the peak month in August; last year  almost 375 thousand came to see the park in the Dog Days, say, all of Minneapolis — You Betcha! – with adequate supplies of “haht dish.”

Things taper down quickly in November, say all of Pasadena, but there’s a reason for that. It gets cold.

During the peak season, how’s a nature lover to find a little solitude with so many cargo shorts-wearing, Nikon-packing compatriots eyeing the same scenery? Simple: go where the hoi polloi aren’t (which doesn’t take much more than about half a mile of walking to do, but you’ll want to keep going after clearing the crowds.) The park has 229,000 square miles (59,711 hec), so there’s room out there. You just need to hit the trails.

Here are 6 great backcountry fixes that don’t even take technical skill (well OK, The Subway takes a little):

1. East Rim
2. West Rim
3. Hop Valley and Kolob Arch
4. Zion Narrows
5. The North Fork (Subway)
6. Taylor Creek Middle Fork

I’ll cover these hikes more on subsequent posts, but here’s a summary. These are some of the favorites of David Day, Utah’s most prolific hiking guide writer.

East Rim and Cable Mountain

Distance:	17.9 miles
Time:	8.5 – 11 hours
Difficulty:	Difficult

A 2-day through-trek from the east entrance, with a side trip to Cable Mountain. Starts at the East Entrance Trailhead (5,720 feet/1,744 m) and ends at the Weeping Rock Trailhead. Rolling Navajo Sandstone studded with pinyons and junipers and groves of Ponderosa pines. An awe-inspiring descent through Echo Canyon and then out to the switchbacks to the main canyon. If your wanderlust isn’t sated by the end, take a side trip to Observation Point, or Hidden Canyon, or both.

Great late spring through mid-fall. The high parts are covered with snow mid-November to May.

West Rim

Distance:	16.4 miles
Time:	8 – 10 hours
Difficulty:	Difficult

You might need a strap to keep your jaw shut on this meandering path that runs through a kaleidoscope of landscapes, from the scrublands on the Kolob Plateau into Zion Canyon slickrock. Start at Lava Point, cross Horse Pasture Plateau, and bring it home through Walter’s Wiggles and Refrigerator Canyon. Angels Landing is optional.

Hop Valley and Kolob Arch

Distance:	14.3 miles
Time:	11 – 13 hours
Difficulty:	Difficult

A long day or a great 2-day trek from Hop Valley Trailhead to Lees Pass at the Kolob entrance to the park. Hop Valley is a highlight, as is Kolob Arch, one of the largest in the world. In summer, it’s a hot trudge out. Stunning scenery without the crowds.

Zion Narrows

Distance:	17.3 miles
Time:	10.5 – 13 hours
Difficulty:	Extreme

A long, wet trudge along the Virgin River starting from the North Fork at Chamberlain Ranch and ending at the Temple of Sinawava. A spectacular main slot canyon and many tempting side canyons. Be ready to get your feet, knees, and more wet. Take walking sticks for support. If you’re really tough you can do it in a day, but it’s better as an overnighter at one of the primitive campsites near Kolob Creek. There are lots of  side canyons to check out.

Permits required. Don’t go when it rains.

The North Fork (Subway)

Distance:	9 miles
Time:	8-10 hours
Difficulty:	Extreme

The technical route is an all-day varied trek through one of Utah’s favorite slot canyons. Start at the Wildcat Canyon trailhead and drop into the canyon. Several rappels, often into icy pools, are required. One spot requires a brisk swim. Take at least a 60-foot (18 m) rope, slings and harnesses. Only 50 people per day are allowed in the drainage, so one of the hardest parts of this hike is getting a hall pass. You need multiple cars, with a drop-off at the North Fork Trailhead.

There’s also a down-and-back, non-technical route with no car shuttling required. Take the Left Fork trailhead, hike down into the canyon, and then upstream to this popular geologic feature. A permit is still required.

Taylor Creek Middle Fork

Distance:	5.4 miles
Time:	3 – 4 hours
Difficulty:	Moderate

A great way to spend a fine morning or an afternoon in Zion. A moderate stream-hopper hike with the remains of 2 old cabins along the way, high pink sandstone walls and a huge Navajo Sandstone alcove at the end. No crowds. Worth a stop when traveling along I-15.

Conclusion

Break out those hiking boots and the backpack and get your wilderness fix. If you’d like to take detailed hiking information along with you, get “Utah’s Incredible Backcountry: Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef” from App Store for $9.99 .

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